Powder, Onsens & Snow Monkeys: A Family Ski Holiday to Japan

If you’re searching for a destination that blends world-class skiing, cultural immersion, and family-friendly fun, Japan delivers. Whether you’re travelling with toddlers, kids, or teens, you’ll find it all — from ski runs that feel like floating through a dream, to steaming hot springs, to up-close encounters with snow monkeys.

We split our family ski holiday to Japan between Nozawa Onsen and Madarao — two very different ski resorts, each with its own magic.

Nozawa Onsen: A Favourite

Set in the mountains of Nagano Prefecture, Nozawa Onsen is one of Japan’s most famous ski towns — and for good reason (here’s my video about it!). It offers long, scenic runs, beginner-friendly powder, and a postcard-perfect village lined with cobblestone streets and traditional ryokans.

We stayed at Lodge Seizan (see my video review here) (booked last minute!) which was affordable, welcoming, and had a stunning balcony view from our family room. While it’s shared-bathroom-style — common in Japanese ski lodges — it also has a small in-house onsen to soak away the day’s tumbles. The owners were lovely and even surprised Lulu with a birthday cake.

As a beginner skier, I loved the soft powder, gentle green runs, and the ski school for the kids. After a half-day lesson, they were skiing confidently. By day three, Max was tackling intermediate runs with ease.

Tip: Next time, I’d love to try Hotel Sayaka, which friends raved about for its in-house onsen, massage chairs, and incredible hospitality.

Eating in Nozawa Onsen

The food scene here rivals the slopes. We celebrated Lulu’s birthday at Gochisou Pizza Bar, serving some of the best woodfired pizzas outside Italy. Another highlight? Tengu Sushi, a fine-dining sushi experience with a private chef — part performance, part feast.

The Snow Monkeys of Jigokudani

No family ski holiday to Japan is complete without a visit to Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park. Watching wild Japanese macaques soaking in steaming onsens, surrounded by snowy cliffs, is unforgettable.

The 30-minute walk in is magical — through towering snow-covered trees and frozen streams (wear good boots!). At the pools, the monkeys lounge like tiny old men at a day spa, occasionally making direct eye contact. See my video here. 

The kids were fascinated, and honestly, so was I. There’s something about seeing an animal truly relaxed that makes you want to rethink your entire life. Would 100% recommend.

Madarao: Hidden Gem

After Nozawa, we headed to Madarao, staying at Raicho Lodge with friends. Smaller and less crowded, Madarao is known for its tree skiing and constant snowfall. Thanks to La Niña, we had non-stop powder — our group dubbed it “Madapow.”

With 30 courses, nine lifts, and a connection to Tangram Ski Resort, you can ski between both for variety. The area’s history is fascinating — abandoned ski lodges from the 1980s boom still dot the landscape, adding a touch of cinematic mystery.

One of the strangest and most surreal parts of skiing in Madarao is the number of abandoned ski resorts and lodges scattered throughout the mountains. The boys went backcountry skiing and found a completely deserted hotel, with old skis still stacked up and restaurant equipment left as if someone had just walked out mid-season.

This isn’t uncommon in Japan. In the 1980s, skiing was booming, and resorts popped up everywhere. But after the economic downturn, combined with people migrating to the cities and unpredictable snowfall, many of them couldn’t survive. Now, they sit empty, eerie reminders of a different era. Many of them even have that 1970s architecture that makes them feel straight out of The Shining.

Madarao itself, however, was thriving this ski season as they saw the best season they’ve had in years thanks to the La Niña phenomenon, characterized by cooler-than-average Pacific Ocean temperatures, which typically brings colder winters and increased precipitation to Japan. We renamed it Madapow thanks to the constant snow fall and the best skiing Damo said he’s ever had.  

Madaroa is still a hidden gem, and the mix of off-piste powder stashes, well-maintained runs, and its slightly eerie backstory makes it a truly unique ski experience.

We had some great meals out with our friends (essential to escape all the children!) and some lovely moments by the fire. Damien even came up with a faster way to chill our champagne. Here are some of our favourite places we ate on this trip:

– Unjaune – A legendary burger joint where the burgers are bigger than your head. Essential post-skiing fuel.

– Mister Daruma – A tiny Japanese tapas spot with the best apple cocktail I’ve ever had.

– The Bruey’s – A small, intimate restaurant that was perfect for a grown-ups-only night out.

– Red Tricycle – Also owned by The Bruey’s this Vietnamese restaurant was delicious with a capital D.  

The Best Onsen Experience in Japan

One of my absolute favourite experiences of the trip was visiting Madarao No-yu Onsen. It’s not super luxe but it has massage chairs, a vending machine where you can order dinner, and the most magical outdoor onsen surrounded by snow-covered trees. 

There’s even an outdoor barrel-style sauna and proper ice baths filled with snow for the full hot-cold therapy experience. We went twice, and I’d go again in a heartbeat.

For those who prefer a more private experience, you can also hire a private onsen space with friends at Silk Inn Madarao. This is a great option if you’re traveling with kids or if you’re not totally comfortable with the traditional nude onsens.

Final Thoughts

The skiing? Incredible.

The food? Next level.

The gastro bug that ran through our group? Not ideal.

And just when we thought we were in the clear? The kids got head lice. Delousing in an onsen was definitely a new experience.

But despite the rough patches, it was one of the best trips of my life. Japan strikes the perfect balance between adventure, culture, and relaxation, and I can’t wait to do it all again. Next time, hopefully, with fewer lice.

Story by Sigourney Cantelo