Where to Stay, Eat & Heal in Kerala: A First-Timer’s Guide

The retreat is still asleep. Except for me. 

The night air is thick—soupy, fragrant, alive with a heady blend of damp earth, salt, and distant spices. The scent of burning incense and ghee-fried dosa drifts up from the village below my clifftop vantage point. I take a sip of warm ginger tea and swat away a mozzie from my leg, still scented with sesame oil. This is Somatheeram, one of Kerala’s oldest Ayurvedic health resorts, and for the next few days, I will submit myself to an ancient healing tradition that has existed for over 5,000 years.  

I expect serenity. What I hadn’t vouched for is an all out assault on the senses.

Getting to Kerala: The Route Less Traveled

It’s a fair hike from Sydney to reach Kerala and I’m invited to try the new Malaysia Airlines route to Trivandrum. I break up the journey with a layover in Kuala Lumpur, which is a deliciously indulgent pause—if you do this, make time for the laksa and curries in the lounge (Malaysia Airlines has mastered the art of inflight dining).

The final four-hour flight into Trivandrum lands around midnight. By the time we disembark into the humid embrace of Kerala’s night air, I am sleep-deprived but buzzing with anticipation. My mum—who has joined me on this trip—jokes that I look l look like Eat, Pray, Love just swallowed me whole. She’s not wrong. I may have even brushed up on some Elizabeth Gilbert in preparation…

Because this isn’t just a wellness retreat. This is a full-body reset—two hours of treatments a day, a strict Ayurvedic diet, and medicinal herbs prescribed by my doctor that taste like soil and tree bark but promise transformation. 

The Real Ayurveda: Not Just a Spa Treatment

At Somatheeram Ayurvedic Hospital & Research Centre, Ayurveda is medical, not cosmetic. The consultation with my doctor is thorough, almost forensic—she examines my tongue, checks my pulse, and diagnoses my dosha imbalance within minutes.

“You are Vata-Pitta,” she tells me. “Too much fire, too much air. Anxiety, digestion issues, dryness in your skin. We will bring you back into balance.”

The treatments are intense and immersive, set against the backdrop of an authentic, rustic resort—not a glossy five-star retreat, but a place deeply rooted in tradition. If you’re after something a little more luxe with uninterrupted ocean views, its sister resort, Manaltheeram, might be a better choice.

Two hours of pampering a day is deliciously, dare I say, sometimes even restlessly long. (I never thought I’d say that.) That said, I think I could submit to Shirodhara all day. The ancient practice, where warm herbal oil is poured onto my forehead in a steady stream, induces a meditative, near-psychedelic state. 

Abhyanga, a synchronized four-hand massage, is both deeply relaxing and slightly a lot like a baggy nappy and, after derobing and donning them, you sit on a little wooden stool. Yep… with everything just… hangin’ out. My lovely therapist Suji has seen it all before. 

She starts by singing a beautiful prayer and anointing my hair with oil. After a long head and shoulder massage, she motions to the teak wooden treatment bed and she’s joined by another therapist before beginning a rhythmic, almost ritualistic full body massage, as they work in perfect unison. It’s not particularly firm, but it’s not light either.

By the second day, something is starting to shift. My dry scalp clears up (all that oil has worked it’s magic), my sleep starts to deepen and, interestingly, my Whoop band reports a dramatic spike in my HRV (Heart Rate Variability)—a sign of deep nervous system recovery.

Kerala’s Temples: A Glimpse into the Divine

In India, temples are woven into the landscape, their intricate carvings, towering gopurams, and gilded deities catching the morning sun.

We visit the nearby Azimala Cliffhan Temple, its 58-foot statue of Lord Shiva staring out over the Arabian Sea like a silent sentinel. At Sri Padmanabhaswamy Temple, we can only view from the outside, its sacred inner sanctum off-limits to non-Hindus.  

The atmosphere is electric—the scent of sandalwood and camphor lingers in the air, and the rhythmic chants of devotees create a hypnotic hum.

A note for travelers: In India, modesty is a sign of respect. I layer a soft cotton shawl over my shoulders and watch as women in brilliantly colored saris move gracefully through the temple courtyards.  

Where to Eat: The Best Food in Kerala 

Every meal in Kerala is a revelation.

Even though I’m supposed to be sticking to the Somatheeram meals, I abscond to try some of the incredible local offerings. All in the name of journalistic research, of course. I did you proud: 

At a dosa house, I sampled masala dosa, a crisp, golden pancake stuffed with spiced potatoes and fragrant chutneys. 

At Villa Maya, a restored 18th-century mansion with koi ponds and flickering lanterns, I feasted on fresh seafood, rich spicy curries, and smoky dahl.  

Even breakfast is an event—each morning at Somatheeram, I start my day with idli (steamed rice cakes), sambar, and coconut chutney, paired with steaming masala chai.  

Everything is complexly spiced, slow-cooked, and deeply nourishing—there is no “grab and go” culture here. And I like it.

What to Buy: Silk, Saris, and Gold Jewelry  

No trip to India is complete without shopping.

We visit a traditional silk-weaving market, where loom workers create intricate saris by hand. I buy a kurta, a long tunic worn over pants, and try on delicate gold jewelry set with luminous Indian gemstones.

If you go, bargaining is expected—but do it with a smile and a bit of charm. You’ll get further with warmth than with hard-nosed haggling.

Final Thoughts: Kerala Stays With You

Kerala is not just a place you visit. It is an experience that changes the very nature of your soul and senses. That almost violent crash of the Arabian Sea, the earthy scent of sandalwood, the hypnotic drizzle of warm oil on my forehead—all of it lingers, a sensory imprint that refuses to fade. As I board my Malaysia Airlines flight for the long journey home, I’m already plotting my return… 

Story by Sigourney Cantelo

*This trip was generously supported by Malaysia Airlines as part of their new route launch to Kerala. As always, all opinions and experiences are entirely my own.*