Up on the leisure deck, the heated pool looks out across the River Torrens, which is not the view you expect from a spa in the middle of a city. Eos is the wellness floor of SkyCity's hotel, and it treats altitude as part of the therapy. There is a cedarwood sauna, a eucalyptus steam room and the BODHI Spa for treatments once the swimming is done. The finishes are the polished, moneyed sort you would want from a five-star address. Order something from the poolside menu, built on South Australian produce. Sink back. The city keeps moving down there without you.